How to sew a Welt Pocket of a Jacket

“How to sew a Jacket Welt Pocket”

“Fully-lined”

Apply interfacing on a pocket.
Overlock a pocket facing.
Plain seam a welt on side.
Turn a welt out and Press.
Attach a pocket facing to a pocket bag.
Staystitch on a welt (in order NOT to move).
Plain seam a welt on a bodice.
Plain seam a pocket bag on a bodice (seam again on same as just before).
Plain seam double-stitched in parallel.
Slash between double-stitched (like an Arrow feathers at the edge)
Turn a pocket bag out and Press.
Sew (twice) a pocket bag.
Sew the edge of pocket opening (from wrong side).
Press a pocket.
Stitch the edge of the pocket.
Overlock a pocket bag.

“Unlined”

Fold seam allowance of a welt (Add 2cm seam allowance compared with the case of Fully-lined).
Plain seam a welt on side.
Cut seam allowance.
Turn a welt out and Press.
Basting stitch the pocket bag which is without facing.
Plain seam a welt to a bodice.
Fold a pocket bag (in order to mark).
Plain seam the pocket bag which is with facing.
Slash between double-stitched (like an Arrow feathers at the edge).
Turn a welt and pocket bag out and Press.
Blind stitch the edge of a welt.
Stitch the edge of a pocket.
Sew (twice) a pocket bag.
Cut excess seam allowance.
Fold Bias piping tape.
Bias-bound seam a pocket bag.

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We made welt pockets with two patterns of Fully-lined and Unlined, assuming a waist pocket in a jacket or a blouson.
At the Fully-lined, the seam allowance part comes out to the outside, the pocket bag is overlocked.
At the Unlined, the seam allowance part is hidden inside, the pocket bag is bias-bound seam.

Although the case of Unlined is difficult, we want to learn two patterns.

Please refer to it.
http://ateliersaison.jp/pg181.html

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BGM composition : Button hole craftman

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Paris collection, Tokyo collection etc… Sample garment factory Atelier Saison.
We have sewed at Shibuya-ku, Jingumae in Tokyo for more than 35 years.