“Collar, Sleeve, Mitered sleeve”
Plain seam back and side bodice
Plain seam Shoulder line
Plain seam under collar and collar stand
Plain seam upper collar and collar stand
Adjust ease seam
Seam opening back bodice on side
Seam opening shoulder line
Seam opening upper collar and collar stand
Torso (check)
Top-stitch (seam opening) upper collar and collar stand
Top-stitch (overlapped seam) under collar and collar stand
Plain seam upper and under collar
Cut seam allowance and Grading it
Plain seam top and under sleeve (back side)
Sew the edge of opening sleeve
Mitering sleeve
Plain seam lining top and under sleeve (back side)
Make fullness of sleeve lining (back side)
Seam opening the collar and turn it out
Seam opening the mitered sleeve and turn it out
Seam opening the sleeve (back side)
Plain seam the sleeve opening
Plain seam the hem of main and lining sleeve
Slash and cut the seam allowance of sleeve opening
Turn the sleeve opening out and Press it
Hand invisible stitch the sleeve opening
Plain seam the hem of sleeve (top sleeve side)
Staystitch on the button hole
Sew a sleeve button
It is a Tailored jacket cutting by a cutter.
Cutting is the first and most important process part.
Let’s be conscious of Grain line per part.
It is a ladies jacket with full lining.
Jackets are hard to sew compared to shirts and skirts anyway.
For example, in case of shoulder, there are sleeve head wadding and shoulder pads and it is completely different from the sleeve of the shirt.
But that is why it will be what a beautiful shape.
The feeling when wearing is also the best.
Design specification of the jacket is a waist pocket with the flap most commonly used.
Back vent, front dart and functioning sleeve buttons.
The chest pocket and the inner pocket are removed.
As I did not want to take as much time as possible at filming, it is as simple as possible, but still have the necessary parts.
As for bound welt pocket already uploaded, please refer it if you need.
Manual works (hand invisible stitch etc…) is packed.
The jacket is really a treasure trove of technique.
The main cloth is Flannel, and lining, sleek, interfacing are two kinds.
-Sewing specification-
Fabric : Flannel
Full lining
Flap waist pockets
2 darts (Front 2)
Back vent
Functioning sleeve buttons
*** You can download the pattern in PDF, it is free. ***
Please refer to it.
http://ateliersaison.jp/pg189.html
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BGM composition : Button hole craftman
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Paris collection, Tokyo collection etc… Sample garment factory Atelier Saison.
We have sewed at Shibuya-ku, Jingumae in Tokyo for more than 35 years.