How to sew a Tailored Jacket/Blazer Part 3

“Dart, Flap welt pocket, Back vent of main fabric”

Sew front dart
Seam opening of dart
Stick stay tape on the pocket of front bodice
Plain seam front and side bodice
Seam opening of front and side bodice
Mark on flap lining
Sew the flap
Cut the corner of the flap
Staystitch the corner seam allowance
Fold seam allowance of the flap
Sew the pocket opening of the flap
Attach pocket facing to pocket bag
Basting stitch pocket bag to bodice
Sew the welt on the pocket opening (upper)
Sew the welt on the pocket opening (lower)
Cut and slash the pocket opening
Seam opening the welt and turn it out
Concealed seam the welt (upper and lower)
Sew triangular tab at the edge of the pocket
Stitch the lower welt part to the pocket bag
Basting stitch the flap to the pocket bag
Concealed seam the upper welt to attach the flap and bag
Cut the remainder of the welt
Sew (twice) the pocket bag
Bar tack on the edge of the welt pocket
Plain seam the back bodice on center
Sew the edge of the vent
Mitering the hem of the back bodice
Seam opening the mitered corner and turn it out
Seam opening the center back

It is a Tailored jacket cutting by a cutter.
Cutting is the first and most important process part.
Let’s be conscious of Grain line per part.

It is a ladies Tailored jacket with full lining.
Jackets are hard to sew compared to shirts and skirts anyway.
For example, in case of shoulder, there are sleeve head wadding and shoulder pads and it is completely different from the sleeve of the shirt.
But that is why it will be what a beautiful shape.
The feeling when wearing is also the best.

Design specification of the jacket is a waist pocket with the flap most commonly used.
Back vent, front dart and functioning sleeve buttons.
The chest pocket and the inner pocket are removed.
As I did not want to take as much time as possible at filming, it is as simple as possible, but still have the necessary parts.
As for bound welt pocket already uploaded, please refer it if you need.

Manual works (hand invisible stitch etc…) is packed.

The jacket is really a treasure trove of technique.

The main cloth is Flannel, and lining, sleek, interfacing are two kinds.

-Sewing specification-
Fabric : Flannel
Full lining
Flap waist pockets
2 darts (Front 2)
Back vent
Functioning sleeve buttons

*** You can download the pattern in PDF, it is free. ***
Please refer to it.
http://ateliersaison.jp/pg189.html

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BGM composition : Button hole craftman

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Paris collection, Tokyo collection etc… Sample garment factory Atelier Saison.
We have sewed at Shibuya-ku, Jingumae in Tokyo for more than 35 years.