How to sew a Sleeve – Functioning Sleeve Buttons – of a Tailored Jacket

“How to sew a sleeve”

Fold the hem of top sleeve
Fold the hem of under sleeve
Fold the hem of lining under sleeve
Fold the hem of lining top sleeve
Plain seam top and under sleeve (back side)
Sew the edge of opening sleeve
Mitering sleeve
Plain seam lining top and under sleeve (back side)
Make fullness of sleeve lining (back side)
Seam opening the collar and turn it out
Seam opening the mitered sleeve and turn it out
Seam opening the sleeve (back side)
Plain seam the sleeve opening
Plain seam the hem of main and lining sleeve
Slash and cut the seam allowance of sleeve opening
Turn the sleeve opening out and Press it
Hand invisible stitch the sleeve opening
Plain seam the hem of sleeve (top sleeve side)
Plain seam top and under sleeve (front side)
Plain seam lining top and under sleeve (front side)
Make fullness of the lining sleeve (front side)
Seam opening the sleeve (front side)
Plain seam the sleeve (remaining)
Blind stitch the hem of the sleeve
Blind stitch the sleeve

It is a ladies Tailored jacket with full lining.
Jackets are hard to sew compared to shirts and skirts anyway.
For example, in case of shoulder, there are sleeve head wadding and shoulder pads and it is completely different from the sleeve of the shirt.
But that is why it will be what a beautiful shape.
The feeling when wearing is also the best.

Design specification of the jacket is a waist pocket with the flap most commonly used.
Back vent, front dart and functioning sleeve buttons.
The chest pocket and the inner pocket are removed.
As I did not want to take as much time as possible at filming, it is as simple as possible, but still have the necessary parts.
As for bound welt pocket already uploaded, please refer it if you need.

Manual works (hand invisible stitch etc…) is packed.

The jacket is really a treasure trove of technique.

The main cloth is Flannel, and lining, sleek, interfacing are two kinds.

-Sewing specification-
Fabric : Flannel
Full lining
Flap waist pockets
2 darts (Front 2)
Back vent
Functioning sleeve buttons

*** You can download the pattern in PDF, it is free. ***
Please refer to it.
http://ateliersaison.jp/pg189.html

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BGM composition : Button hole craftman

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Paris collection, Tokyo collection etc… Sample garment factory Atelier Saison.
We have sewed at Shibuya-ku, Jingumae in Tokyo for more than 35 years.